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I’m back

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No, not to Malawi but to this blog. Apple’s MobileMe will become defunct on June 30 so I have acquainted myself with WordPress. Over a year has passed since I have been in Malawi. I have been in frequent touch with many of my friends and members of the St. Martin’s Hospital and community. It did take longer for them to get the generator up and running, actually months longer but , the last I heard, it is working. What a relief for them because blackouts have been more prominent than ever.

Malawi has a new President, Joyce Banda. She replaced Bingu wa Mutharika who died in April 2012. This was a gift to the Malawian people. Bingu was becoming an autocrat, committing human rights violations, and pocketing funds intended for food, drugs, healthcare services and education. He became so distasteful that the UK and US governments cut off aid. The irony of his death is that there were no adequate healthcare facilities to care for him in the hospital in the capital, Lilongwe. He was immediately put onto a plane for South Africa. Joyce Banda is committed to the improvement of healthcare, education and gender equality. Time will tell.

The Malawi Kwacha (MK) has been devalued. The exchange rate went from MK 160 per USD to MK 270 per USD. The people are receiving the same salaries but the cost of everything imported (which is almost everything) cost nearly 70% more. It has been hard.

The hospital is benefitting tremendously from the supplies and equipment, especially in this time of need. Simkonda, the chief clinical officer,  has been using the ultrasound to assist him with diagnosis in maternal care. The operating room has more equipment. There are  enough gloves and sterile dressings for the next five years. There are enough beds, mattresses and oxygen concentrators for every patient, especially the infants and children.

Unfortunately, I do not have an active dialogue with the current administration. My partner in my initial endeavor, the original hospital administrator, Bernard Ngosi, died in 2010, of complications from diabetes. Since then, the hospital has not been on a direct path of improvement. Internal political differences have led to the departure of the accountant, John, the HIV/AIDs specialist, Evance, the lab supervisor, Lyson, the spiritual leader Archdeacon Eston Pembamoyo, and others.

In order for me to maximize my efforts, I need a stable on-site person to work with. I have learned that in order for any project to progress and be sustainable, there needs to be more on-ground community, civil and government involvement.

I stay in touch with many of my friends. I hear from Mercy, who cares for 8 children, and works  in the hospital. She recently informed me that she was only able to harvest 5 bags of maize this season, not enough to feed her family this year. Yes, I do send her money for food and to pay  fees for her children to attend school. It delights me, while  examining a patient in Scottsdale, Arizona,  to get a text from Mercy telling me that her oldest son did well on his exams.

St. Martin’s Hospital may not become the model rural hospital I envisioned years ago. However, due to my efforts, along with help from my supporters,  healthcare and the quality of life has improved for many. I plan to return in the end of August.

My journey 2011

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A FACE OF MALAWI  Sunday, April 11, 2011

This child has AIDS. His red hair is indicative of malnutrition. He is taking antiretroviral (ARV) medications. As long as he takes his medication, gets nutrition in the form of ‘Plumpy nut’ or vitamin-enriched Lunda Phala Flour, and gets his immunizations, he can grow up to become a productive and happy adult.  His mother also has AIDS. It is hard for her to walk the 8 kilometers to the Health Centre every month.  The delivery of ‘Plumpy nut’ to her village will soon stop. She does not sleep under a malaria net. Mom and child will likely get malaria every year and wait until they are very sick to go to the Hospital.

Despite new medical supplies in the Hospital and despite ARV meds being paid for by the government, people do not have the education nor the logistic ability to take good care of themselves and their families. This is so frustrating to me, that I have asked myself many times if I am really making any difference. I do believe that saving one person is as important as saving a village. And, thus, I will continue to do as much as I can in the time I have left on this planet to improve and prolong the lives of those less fortunate than I am.

I am now back in Phoenix.

Dr. Helen

BEING INTERVIEWED BY PRESS AND RADIO  Thursday, May 31, 2011

We spent the night at the US State Department-owned home of Ben and Ania in the upper class neighborhood of Lilongwe, Malawi’s capital. It was a glorious evening and definitely worth my taxpayer dollars. The grounds, maintained by a full-time gardener, are exquisite. The garden is sufficient to supply multiple families with enough fresh herbs and vegetables.

The next morning we went to Ben’s office. He is the Public Affairs’ Officer. He arranged for a reporter from Zodiac radio and from The Nation newspaper to interview me about St. Martin’s Hospital, Project CURE’s container, and my vision for the future of healthcare in rural Malawi. The interview lasted over an hour. Simkonda answered questions in Chechewa.  The 7-minute radio clipped was aired the next morning . St. Martin’s started to get phone calls for scheduling ultrasounds.

NKHOMA MISSION HOSPITAL  Wednesday, March 30, 2011

Jenn Wall of Africa Burn Relief has done an amazing job making the Burn Centre at Nkhoma Mission Hospital among the best in the country. She is an American who has been working in Malawi for the past four years. Her nonprofit has collected all the necessary equipment, including a dermatomes and skin meshers, used to perform skin grafting.

Simkonda has experience in skin grafting but no tools. Jenn offered him a skin mesher (expensive machine from the US), blades, and other tools. We all took a breathtaking scenic  4-hour journey through the mountains to Nkhoma. Jenn gave Simkonda a workshop on pigs’ legs using the instruments and mesher. We are good to go at St. Martin’s!

Nkhoma Hospital, which also contains one of Malawi’s prominent Eye Centres, is a great example of the benefit of donations in teaching resident healthcare workers to care for themselves. Dutch, German, British, Chinese and American donors have donated wings and machines. They have remained onsite from construction start to finish, and trained healthcare workers to become self-sufficient.

DISTRIBUTION AND USE OF SUPPLIES  Tuesday, March 29, 2011

I enjoyed coming back to our little house on the lake, with a minimum of electricity and running water. Our cook, James’ rice, beans, tomatoes and onions dish is still the best. There is nothing like living from sunrise to sunset, reading by flashlight and getting enough sleep. Even bathing in the lake has become cautiously acceptable.

We are spending our days introducing workers to the supplies. I assisted Simkunda, the clinical superintendent, with performing an inguinal hernia repair. We used a donated surgical tray, new blood pressure cuff, and wore new scrubs and operating gowns. Simkunda is instructing me on surgical techniques, and I am teaching him about diabetes, hypertension and reading EKGs. The hospital is blessed that he has had training and experience with ultrasound.

We are beginning to set up the electrical equipment using the step down generators that we purchased in the States. The dental chair supplied by Project CURE moves in all directions with a push of the buttons. Many have never seen anything like this, and the chair is being used by all (even Patrick).

We have designed a structure for the generator. Patrick has negotiated with a local contractor and funded the construction which will start immediately. Being onsite surely speeds along progress.

CAPE MACLEAR  Sunday, March 27, 2011

After experiencing the illness and poverty at the HIV/AIDS outreach clinic on Friday morning, Jean, Pat, Jerrold and I headed off for a weekend retreat at Cape MaClear to meet Pat’s son, Ben, and family. Ben works for the U.S. State Department.  Cape Maclear is a small fishing village on Nankumba Peninsula on the west side of Lake Malawi.

We stayed in luxury in the Danforth Yachting Club/Lodge – hot showers, excellent meals, boating and other water activities.  The owners, Howard and Michelle, have done a wonderful job of supporting the community by paying teacher and police salaries, creating solar energy, and training chefs and other trades.

Although I enjoyed every moment of the comfort, the dichotomy between the western lifestyle and the suffering of the rural Malawians, gnawed on my consciousness.

HIV/AIDS OUTREACH CLINIC  Friday, March 25, 2011

Stepped out of bed this morning into a flood throughout our house. There was no running water yesterday. We kept checking and accidentally left our faucets turned on before we went to sleep the night before. What a mess! Again, we were lucky that the day before we moved the 22 transformers out of our house into the hospital.

The past few days have been devastatingly hot. We have not had electricity nor running water. It is not possible for me to do much after lunch. The question has been whether or not to cool off or bath in Lake Malawi which has Bilharzia (Schistosomiasis), a disease causes by a parasite.

I left with Evance by ambulance at 8 AM to ARV (anti-retroviral) Outreach Cinic. The clinic is held 35 km away, reached by mostly dirt road, in a former Roman Catholic Health Centre. We were greeted by hundreds of recently diagnosed and long-term HIV positive/AIDS patients, mostly women and children,  waiting for their medication and for counseling. Before the mobile clinic opened this past December, the patients were required to travel to St. Martin’s Hospital on foot. Many stopped traveling so far because of illness. This is a wonderful pilot program set up by CDC and funded by USAID to increase the diagnosis and treatment  in rural Malawi. Lay persons have been trained to go to the villages to draw blood for testing of HIV. Health care workers have been given motorcycles to travel to remote sites to evaluate the patients who have stopped coming to clinic.

MZUZU SPECIALTY COFFEE  Thursday, March 24, 2011

“OUR COFFEE AND YOUR HEALTH

Muzuza coffee will contribute the following to your body

*Improves Mental performance *Improves Alertness *Improves Athletic Performance *Reduces the risk of lever cancer *Reduces the risk of Diabetes *Reduces the Organization of gallstone *Protects from the development of Parkinson Disease *Protects from colds…………

Dear Customer,

Research is what makes people discover things. Mzuzu Coffee planters Corporative

Union discovered thatb coffee is essential forv health.

Take it as necessity STOP! Consumming it for pleasure”

Above taken directly from the label.

BACK TO CLINICAL WORK  Monday, March 21, 2011

Today I met a lovely  medical attendant at the hospital. We will call her Marie. She is 35 and has several children. She continues to have multiple pelvic-related symptoms. She was diagnosed with cervical dysplasia by biopsy many years ago. When she was referred to and travelled a long distance to Queen Elizabeth (QE) Hospital in Blantyre for a hysterectomy, they instead decided to do a Pap smear. Pap smears are not available outside of the larger medical centers. Results often take 6 weeks to return. In Marie’s case, they lost the specimen. She has had no followup. Cervical cancer is very common in Malawi. Five cases in advanced stages have been diagnosed at St. Martin’s in the past month.

The clinical cases I saw today include severe skin reaction to one of the antiviral drugs treating AIDS, a foot ulcer that has spread into the bone and a huge scrotal abscess. I debrided the ulcer, and one of the clinical officers drained the abscess.

I watched the normal delivery of twin girls. Maternal and fetal health are improving in Malawi. A few years ago, Malawi was #1 in the world for maternal death. The government now strongly discourages birthing in the villages. Thus, more women are delivering in health centres and hospitals

Organizing and storing the 1000 boxes has now been taken over by Jerrold, Jean and Pat. Finding room for them in storage has been a formidable task. Hospital employees  congregate around the gazebo to move the boxes but not before some are opened. The contents are evaluated, the gear is tried on, and the equipment is played with. If we didn’t have so much work to do, it would be very entertaining. The reality of the quantity of supplies and equipment has hit everyone.

TODAY IS MY BIRTHDAY  Friday, March 19, 2011

What a great day; a day au natural as we, again had a blackout that lasted 20 hours. It is hot and humid. We herded many of the hospital staff to start to sort out the boxes. They totally did not know where to store 50 boxes of IV catheters and 400 water pitches.No one had seen ever such clean and well-made surgical scrubs. Woman are now going to birth with their feet in stirrups. Everyone’s eyes were looking around in amazement. Our work for the day had to stop for the community to attend the funeral of a young mother. Hopefully our work in Malawi will decrease the number of funerals.

My birthday party was a blast. Jerrold and I love traveling with Jean and Pat. We work and party well together. We invited all our favorite people from the hospital – John, the accountant, Evance, a medical asistant, Eric, the ambulance driver, and his wife, Matron Peter, his wife, and lovely 5-year-old neice Promise, and the new administrator, Vincent, an educated, low keyed gentlemen, who I think will do good work for the hospital. The had never had peanut and jelly sandwiches nor cheese and crackers that we offered them. I created the Malindi Fizz – Malawi Gin, Orange Fanta, Juice and lime. Not too bad considering nothing was cold and there was no ice.

THE CONTAINER ARRIVED THE DAY AFTER WE DID  Friday, March 18, 2011

It is absolutely amazing. We could not have planned it better if we had orchestrated the timing. We arrived in Malindi on Thursday. On 10 AM on Friday, the container pulls up to the dirt road of the hospital. In the process of driving onto the grounds, we had to remove fences, cut tree branches and hold up electrical wires. And there it was. The 40 foot container. I unsealed the steel tags three months after I sealed them in the Phoenix warehouse of Project C.U.R.E. The 950 boxes of supplies felt like a lot then. No one could believe the amount that had to be unloaded. Everyone including women and children spent almost 5 hours working . The entire covered waiting area for patients was filled. Luckily, it did not rain until we were done. Tomorrow, we will begin to sort through the boxes.

It is fabulous to be back here. Jean, Pat, Jerrold and I are having a fabulous time working and playing together.

BOARDING THE PLANE FOR JOHANNESBURG  Monday, March 14, 2011

I won’t believe it until I see it. The fact that Jerrold and I and the container may arrive in Malindi concurrently in 3 days is amazing. It has been hit and miss.

As of last week, the container was still somewhere in the Indian Ocean heading toward the coast of Mozambique. We had decided not to go if the supplies were not going to be there. Then the ETA of 3/11 turned into the fact that it had arrived and cleared customs on 3/7.

Today, when we tried to check in at the Delta counter, Jerrold was told that his passport was not approved in Joberg. When they finally agreed to give him a boarding pass to Atlanta only, we had to be escorted through security because it was so late. Then, my carry-on luggage was flagged requiring a body search and the discovery of traces of TNT in my handbag (?!). We are in Atlanta, I did not blow up the plane, and Jerrold’s boarding pass appeared.

We will soon be in the air.

THE PROJECT C.U.R.E. CONTAINER IS APPROACHING MALAWI  Wednesday, February 23, 2011

Medical supplies  valued at half a million dollars are approaching St. Martin’s Hospital. This is a dream come true. A year ago, I had no idea how I would contribute to the welfare of the unfortunate and deserving members of this community.

The container left Phoenix on December 16th and travelled from LA to Hong Kong. It is due to arrive in Durban, South Africa on Saturday, travel up to the port of Beira, Mozambique, and proceed across Mozambique via truck or rail to landlocked Malawi.

Jerrold and I leave on March 14th and will arrive two days later. I am getting texts, calls and emails from our many new friends who await our arrival.

The hospital, though, will not be the same without the beloved former administrator, Bernard Ngosi. He died of complications of diabetes at the age 62 in the end of December. He postponed his retirement to await the arrival of the container. I dedicate the container to Mr. Ngosi. Without his support and partnership, it never would have happened. He is missed by all.

My journey 2010

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THE CONTAINER IS PACKED AND SHIPPED  Wednesday, December 22, 2010

One week ago I worked with the Phoenix operations director of Project C.U.R.E, Derek, my friends, Michele and Andy, and other enthusiastic volunteers, tightly packing  the 40-foot container parked outside of the Tempe warehouse. We loaded 950 boxes and multiple pieces of equipment – a full size Xray machine, a sophisticated ultrasound machine with multiple probes, a new diesel generator, a CO2 laser, 20 hospital beds with wonderful mattresses, 15 oxygen concentrators, an OR table, a dental chair and drills, lab equipment, and much more……..The energy was uplifting.

The 22,000 pounds has left by truck for Houston where it will be sent off to sea, into the Atlantic, down the west coast of Africa, around the tip and up the east coast until it docks in Mozambique. It will head inland by train or truck to Malawi.

Project C.U.R.E. has never lost a container.

CASINO NIGHT WAS SUCCESSFUL  Saturday, November 27, 2010

The Fifth Annual Project C.U.R.E. Casino Charity Party was a success!. It was at the home of Brian and Irene (above left)  and put together by the Executive Director of Phoenix Project C.U.R.E., Michael Medero (above right) and many giving volunteers. We had fun gambling, winning auction prizes, and raising $3000 for my project in Malawi.

Things are moving quickly now. $20,000, for the shipping of the first container, has been collected. The packing list has been sent and the Cargo Approval Form has been signed. We are going to load the container from the Project C.U.R.E. warehouse  in Tempe on December 15. It will take about 10 volunteers and 6 hours.

The contents will include an ultrasound machine (which will be the most sophisticated in the country) generously donated by Scottsdale Medical Imaging, a carbon dioxide laser machine generously donated by a plastic surgeon in town, an Xray machine, oxygen concentrators, and an operating table and lights. The list spans 4 pages of boxes and boxes of supplies.

Jerrold and I already have our air tickets to return in mid-March, which will be after the container arrives. We are both so excited. We will facilitate the training of the healthcare workers on the use of the equipment.

I am grateful to the so many people who have been so generous with their monetary support. My friends, patients, family and colleagues have donated about $25,000. Every dollar donated translates directly into $20 of medical supplies and equipment which save many lives. Thank you!

ONE STEP CLOSER TO SHIPPING  Thursday, November 11, 2010

The funds have successfully been raised for our first container! Project C.U.R.E. has compiled the preliminary shipping list, including an Xray machine, an ultrasound, oxygen concentrators and pages of other needed equipment and supplies. On Saturday, November 20, there is the Fifth Annual Project C.U.R.E. Casino night. All funds raised will be going to my work in Malawi. I am very excited and so appreciative of all the support I have received.

LESS THAN $1000 TO GO  Tuesday, October 26, 2010

Everyone has been amazing. I have raised over $19,000 to fund shipment of my first container to Malawi. I thank the doctors and dentists I work with, friends, friends of friends, my family, members of the New Shul, and others who heard my story and just wanted to help.

OUR GOAL IS WITHIN SIGHT  Wednesday, September 29, 2010

Donations are coming in. So many have been so generous. I have successfully collected nearly $15,000 of the $20,000 needed to ship the container. I plan to go to the Project C.U.R.E. warehouse to start to tag the items to be sent to Malawi. Thank you everyone!

TECHNOLOGY AND DIRE POVERTY  Sunday, August 8, 2010

I am smiling; I am crying. Being in Africa here gives me a new look on life. Presenting the Venerable Archdeacon Pembamoyo with a new digital projector, which he will use to teach thousands of school children, fills me with joy. Driving through the dirt roads, watching children bathing in the contaminated Shire River, fills me with sadness. The task to improve healthcare, capacity build and educate the poorest of the poor is exciting but overwhelming.

I am now flying home, eating all sorts of processed food, sipping wine and not fearful of drinking whatever water I am served. I woke up this morning (or however many hours ago) under a mosquito net, without electricity and having to boil water for tea on a charcoal fire.

My task now is to raise $20,000 to pay for the shipping of a container of medical supplies stored in Project C.U.R.E warehouses. The supplies, that would otherwise end up in a landfill, will leave the U.S., travel across the Atlantic, around the southern tip of Africa, into the Indian Ocean, dock at Mozambique and travel overland by rail and truck to Malindi. I will return soon after the container arrives to start the process of training hospital employees and healthcare workers to utilize the equipment.

I am blessed to have the ongoing opportunity to improve the lives of the grateful Malwians I have met, even if it may be for brief moments in time.

Dr. Helen

WORK  Friday, August 6, 2010

The three weeks at St. Martin’s has not been long enough. I do not feel I have done enough. For the past two days I have given talks on diabetes and hypertension to the medical assistants, nurse/midwives and clinical attendants. Preventive medicine is not generally practiced in rural Malawi.

I am working in the outpatient clinic. An 8-month-old baby comes in with malaria and severe anemia. None of her relatives match her blood type.  A 19-year-old boy from her village, who is a match, donates his blood and saves her life. A man presents with huge lymph nodes in his neck, axilla, groin and has a very large liver and spleen. He is HIV negative. The working diagnosis is Burkett’s lymphoma, found in malaria-endemic areas. He will probably never be biopsied nor treated. Another man walks into clinic asking for a renewal of diabetes medications. His blood sugar is over 600 (dangerously high level) and he declines admission because he has no money (St. Martin’s is a private mission hospital). A 16-year-old presents to donate blood. She is disqualified because she tests positive for syphilis. She is back in elementary school (She dropped out for many years) , lives with her grandmother, and would not disclose who her partner(s) are.

A mother comes in with a 4-day-old infant who stopped feeding the day before. I took the baby to rush her to the ward to get oxygen and try to start an IV. The baby boy died in my arms.

On Thursday, I worked the ARV (Antiretroviral clinic), as the only practitioner, with the assistance of translators. I saw 80 patients with AIDS, all who walk miles to get their medications every 1-2 months. HIV medications are supplied by the government. A major effort is being made throughout the country, and throughout Africa,  prevent and treat HIV/AIDS. Education is the key. Progress is being made.

Dr. Helen

ST. MARTIN’S FIRST LECTURE  Tuesday, August 3, 2010

The Phoenix-Malawi connection precedes me. A practitioner from Phoenix, Jenn, has been coming to Malawi for five years, instructing on the treatment of severe burns at Nkhoma Mission Hospital, near Lilongwe. She met Will, an eye surgeon from U.K., who has a four-year contract at the same hospital. He performs 2000 cataract surgeries a year! They married in Malawi two months ago.

I organized St. Martin’s Hospital’s very first lecture/slide presentation for Monday morning. It was a huge success. Nearly every clinical officer, nurse, medical assistant, and health care worker attended. The questions were impressive covering all areas of burn prevention, treatment, infection control, fluid management and nutrition.

A Dutch benefactor is building a new ward for burn patients in Nkhoma. It is the only center in all of Malawi that currently does grafting with a machine called a Dernatome. A precise thickness of dermis and epidermis is removed as the graft. The graft is then flattened out and placed on the debrided burn site. Wound dressing are changed daily. When they run out of the topical cream Silvadene, the papaya fruit works just as well to promote healing.

Second and third degree burns are common. Most cooking is done outdoors over an open fire. Children play around the fire and are the number one victims.

Seizure disorders are common because of the high incidence of cerebral malaria. Due to lack of education and superstition, seizure patients are felt to be cursed. When they fall into the fire during a seizure, no one wants to pull them out. These children with disfiguring scars become further outcasts of society. It is very sad

I am hoping that on my next visit to Malawi I can work with Jenn debriding and grafting third degree burns.

Dr. Helen

PROJECT C.U.R.E. COMES TO MALAWI  Friday, July 30, 2010

Patty arrived on Wednesday. She is a former operating room nurse from Denver who volunteers for three nonprofits. Her job here involves assessing the needs of the hospital, getting signatures from the private and public sectors of Malawi to guarantee duty-free transfer of the container, and evaluating the best shipping route. Project C.U.R.E., who sends about 50 containers a year, has not lost one yet.

We have met with many people and have reviewed many needs lists. The paperwork is in progress. Once I raise $20,000 (everyone, please help!), the Phoenix, Denver and other C.U.R.E. warehouses will be queried for the items that Patty specifies the hospital needs. My three ‘candles’ are the incredible ultrasound machine donated to me by SMIL, an X-ray machine, and lab machines to measure CBC and chemistry. The remaining space of the 40-foot container will be filled with literally tons of other supplies.

The next job, after the supplies arrive from the U.S., is to train and/or find trained ultrasound, Xray and lab techs to run the machines; to purchase supplies (e.g, film, probe covers, reagents); and to investigate means and ways of repairing the machines. Spending more time in Africa and witnessing unexpected ‘miracles’, I trust that things will work out.

Dr. Helen

AN EIGHTEEN-YEAR-OLD  Tuesday, July 27, 2010

This young girl presents to the clinic complaining of breast pain for one week. You can imagine my surprise when I asked her to undress for an examination. Her baby, whom she is breastfeeding, is a few months old.

What makes someone finally present to the hospital for evaluation and treatment? Did she think the ulcer would resolve on its own? Did she tell her husband or her mother about her pain and drainage?

I am unable to photograph the true tragedy I see here. In the pediatric ward, young mothers and babies with malaria, AIDs, and pneumonia line up for medications. I observe and address the complaints. I work in the capacity as a healer trying to gain their trust. Photographing people at their most vulnerable is not appropriate.

There are many clans/tribes in Malawi with superstitions. The Yaos, who live in this area, until recently, did not want their children to get an education. Making a good living fishing was the ultimate goal. The mosquito nets supplied by the government are used to catch fish. Despite dissemination of information and treatment, malaria and HIV are prevelant because of old customs and denial of new teachings.

Dr. Helen

ANIMALS ARE EVERYWHERE  Saturday, July 24, 2010

We just completed a dinner of fish caught a distance up the lake. When the winds blow in the wrong direction, fishing here is minimal. This translates to a low hospital census. If people cannot afford to pay for their clinic visits, hospital stays and medications, they will not come. Malawians are proud. Upon discharge, if they do not have the money to pay the bill, family members will walk many kilometers in bare feet back to their villages to collect donations.

Yesterday, walking to the clinic, we saw a white person. Hannah is a family doctor from Belgium who is working with the NGO Medecins Sans Frontieres (Doctors without Borders). Her three month mission is to address the measles epidemic, which is unexpected and rampant. There are many complications due to vitamin deficiency and malnutrition.

Healthy and happy goat, chicken, turkey, lamb, and cow families roam all over the hospital grounds. They are individually owned and breed to be eaten. There are so many that I have no idea how people can identify the ones they own. The hospital administration’s solution was to fence in a large area and charge owners a fine to retrieve their animals. However, no one had money for the fines. At the end of the day, the hospital ended up feeding the animals. This procedure was abandoned.

Mr. Ngosi has two scraggly emaciated dogs who both, within the past month, had litters. The puppies, numbered at 15-20, are adorable. They are hungry because their mothers don’t eat enough to adequately feed them.

The hospital is kept very, very clean. The floors and walls are washed with disinfectant two times per day. Surgical procedures are very sterile. However, the Operating Theatre is temporarily closed because of infestation with termites. A clump of wood from the ceiling fell into the operating field.

Dr. Helen

WE ARE NOT TAKEN FOR GRANTED  Thursday, July 22, 2010

Our gifts of laptops, camera and projector in addition to medical supplies and medications are so appreciated. When we gave Eric, the ambulance driver, a camera, because he wants to start his own ‘graphics business’, he had tears in his eyes saying it is absolutely the best gift he and his family could ever receive. And John, the accountant, is thanking us day and night for the laptop, saying it is going to make his work for the hospital so much easier. Everywhere we go we are thanked for being here. So little goes such a long way.

Visitors come and go all day long. One day three children came with their parents and we gave each a biscuit. When we came home the next afternoon, there were no fewer than 20 children sitting on our porch. We regretfully had the draw the line. There are two little girls who hang out in our house after school, Promise and Charity, who look at the pictures in the magazines we brought, and practice counting in English with Jerrold.

Soccer practice is at 4 PM daily. There are 3 teams in Malindi. St. Martin’s Hospital lost their first game last week. They did not have a soccer ball to practice with; the two we brought has already improved their game.

Jerrold has become an avid reader. He has already completed 2 of the 6 books we brought and one of them is ‘Dead Aid’, a book by a  smart and educated woman from Zambia, who discusses why aid to Africa should be cut. Jerrold will likely not read this. This is where a Kindle would have been useful. The forehead reading lights we have are great since it is winter and there are only 11 hours of daylight. Thank you, Sherrie.

Dr. Helen

HIV  Wednesday, July 21, 2010

It is truly quite distressing. There are more than 100 men, women and children who come to each ARV (antiretroviral) clinic. The worst are the babies who are HIV positive because their mothers fail to get tested or fail to take the appropriate antiretroviral therapy during pregnancy and at delivery. Even after mothers give birth and are diagnosed, they do not stop breastfeeding because of the risk of malnutrition. The clinics and medications are accessible and free; information about HIV/AIDs is readily available.

I see patients at the OPD (Outpatient Department) and on the wards. For patient confidentiality (which is a little strange here) when an HIV test is ordered, the clinician requests DCT (Diagnostic Counseling and Treatment.) If the test comes back in single digits (0-9), HIV is negative; if the test comes back in any double digit (11-99) then the patient is positive for HIV.

One of our patients died yesterday. He came in with edema. There is no equipment to test his electrolytes and kidney function, nor to take an X-ray. Treatment is hit and miss; should we given them IV fluids or a diuretic?

On that same day a 50-year-old man comes to Clinic requesting a circumcision. He is Moslem and started to pray with his wife. This is done as an outpatient procedure. The Ministry of Health is working on the procedure of circumcising all male newborns for health reasons.

I am learning Chichewa, the national language, slower than I would like. One of the reasons is that Malindi is a region of the Yao clan who speak Chiyao. The hospital employees often need locals to translate for them. There are many different tribal languages in Malawi. Many Christian religions (Anglican, Sisipi, Roman Catholic, Seventh Day Adventist, Church of Clear Waters) are observed and there is a large Islamic presence. It seems as though everyone gets along. When two people (only of the opposite sex; Malawians are very homophobic) want to marry, which can be across tribal and religious lines, two uncles get together and shake hands.

Dr. Helen

WE ARE HERE  Monday, July 19, 2010

We arrived late Saturday night, greeted by many people at our house in the dark. I was told by one of the escorts who picked us up in the ambulance that the electricity does not go out often. It appears as though we drained the generator twice already. The weather is absolutely perfect. This is the time of year to visit.

Before we arrived in Malindi we changed money in Blantyre on a street corner for a considerably higher exchange rate. How interesting! It is amazing how much more we can buy for the hospital. While in Blantyre I purchased a ‘dongle’, a 3G broadband connection to the internet. I was so excited to have Internet access. Nope, not in Malindi!

St. Martin’s Hospital has more notoriety. They are one of four hospitals chosen as a pilot project for HIV treatment/ counseling and prevention. As part of the program, healthcare workers will be trained to ride motor scooters to go to remote communities and track down patients who have not returned to HIV Clinic to get their medications. This program is sponsored by CDC and US President’s Emergency Plan for AIDs Relief (PEPFAR) to try to achieve the Millenium Development Goals (MDG) 3 and 4. Dr. Paul Farmer’s  NGO Partners in Health has been a great model throughout the world.

Jerrold is acclimatizing well. However, he wakes up several times in the middle of the night thinking he is being attacked. The mosquito net is sticking to the stubble on his head like velcro. It will be better after his hair grows.

There is a measles epidemic in sub-Saharan Africa. No one seems to understand it because children and some adults have been immunized with measles vaccine for years. Many are dying from complications of measles. Are you old enough to remember when everyone got measles as a child?  It wasn’t so bad  being put into a dark room, watching TV and missing school for two weeks.

Dr. Helen

A FAMILIAR JOURNEY  Friday, July 16, 2010

It is twelve in the morning, and I woke up bright eyed after three hours of sleep. Jerrold can’t sleep as well. We are in a chilly (temperature) and warm (people) guesthouse room in Johannesburg. We remain in Jo’burg for 2 nights to catch one of the two weekly South African Airline flights to Blantyre. Even the Malawians do not feel safe flying Air Malawi.

This trip to Malawi is so different from the first time I went. In December, I was alone, did not know where I was going, what I would be doing nor how I would be received. Now, traveling with Jerrold is so much more comforting. The route is familiar, and on the flight from Madrid to Joberg I met an old friend – Justice, the South African ambassador to Cuba. He and I took that same flight together in mid-December (He hasn’t been on that flight since)

The first time I visited St. Martin’s Hospital in rural Malawi I was overwhelmed by the poverty and the unnecessary deaths, and felt helpless. I am now returning with a plan and many contacts both in and out of the country. I have been appointed to the Board of the Lakeshore Health Department of the Anglican Diocese of Upper Shire. Project C.U.R.E. has accepted our hospital as one of their projects. A experienced representative from Project C.U.R.E., Patty, is flying from Denver next week to meet us at the hospital to perform a Needs Assessment Study of medical supplies and services. A container valued at $400,000 will be delivered to St. Martin’s after shipping costs are collected.

I have had the pleasure of meeting Jean, who has great interest in Malawi, and has pledged a large donation for the shipping.

I look forward to seeing my old friends who I have kept in touch with and gotten to know better via email and text messaging. For my first journey, I filled up suitcases with supplies I thought would be of benefit. Brand name medications (donated by drug reps) were not used because no one ever heard of them.   Manual BP cuffs sat around because of the lack of stethoscopes.

We have now brought new and unused laptops (bought on Craigslist) to keep track of data for a new HIV project funded by CDC, WHO and USAID. 14% of the population in Malawi is HIV-positive. There are been great progress with the Prevention of Mother-to-Child Transmission (PMTCT) program.

We have brought a projector (also from Craigslist) to assist the teachers, healthcare educators and clergy with presentations to large groups.  Also packed are generic medications, electronic BP cuffs, thermometers, glucometers, glucose test strips, suction tubes, NG tubes, sterile packing, medical books, clipboards for charting, a camera, soccer balls, and coloring books in Chechewa teaching children and their families how to prevent and treat burns. A Physician Assistant, Jenn, from Phoenix, works in a large burn center near Lilongwe, teaching healthcare workers to treat burns, and community members to prevent them. 5000 coloring books are sitting in Phoenix because shipping is too expensive. The books will definitely go onto the container.

Scottsdale Medical Imaging has graciously donated a sophisticated Siemens ultrasound/doppler machine to me/St. Martin’s. This gift is vital in improving childbirth outcome/maternity and newborn health. Does anyone know of an ultrasound tech who would like to volunteer to come to Malawi to teach nurses/midwives to use the machine?

My biggest travel fear, thus far, was having the 22 vials of Insulin on-ice confiscated. I was sure I would have to talk my way through (with all the official-appearing letters I wrote) at every security checkpoint. Instead, I mentioned to each screener that I am carrying Insulin, and the insulated sack containing  22 little bottles of clear fluids passed through without being opened nor questioned. There was much more suspicion over my pants’ zipper and MacBook.

I am truly excited to return to my house on Lake Malawi. I have  been blessed with the installation of a small hot water tank.

Dr Helen

MY PARTNERSHIP WITH PROJECT C.U.R.E.  Monday, May 31, 2010

I can’t believe it has been nearly five months since I have posted an entry in this journal. I arrived back to the States safely, and went back to work. Initially, I wasted nothing. I reused plastic bags over and over, limited my shower time, and so appreciated the hot water. I could not go into a store and buy anything that was not a bare necessity, thinking how the few dollars here and there could add up to pay school fees. I spoke on the phone to the hospital every week, and texted and emailed many of the young people I met. I remember the first meal in a restaurant after I came back. The wasted food was painful.

Although I have slipped back into some of my familiar habits, my passion to bring better health care to Malawi is as strong as ever. I am very excited to report that I have partnered with Project C.U.R.E (www.projectcure.org). They are an NGO based in the US that maintains huge warehouses of discarded, unused and expired medical supplies donated by hospitals, manufacturers and other donors. They have agreed to take on my hospital as a project (#MW-09-082, St. Martin’s Hospital, Malawi) and the plan is to send a container of medical supplies valued at about $400,000. My task is to raise $23,000 for transportation costs. I know nothing about fundraising, and at this point, feel uncomfortable with it. However, with that said, if anyone who reads this, is so inclined to help, donation on-line is simple. I tested it out myself. Please specify #MW-09-082, and 100% of your tax-deductible donation goes directly to shipping costs.

I return to St. Martin’s Hospital for almost a month in July/August with my husband, Jerrold. For the next 5 weeks, I am back into my planning phase. I must select the most important things to bring, given the weight restrictions on air flights. I am hoping to bring an ultrasound machine donated by Scottsdale Medical Imaging. I am working on a plan to create patient charts. Patient charting was done on loose pieces of paper which became separated, damaged and lost. Can you picture all those medication errors?

I welcome anyone who reads this to contact me at helentz@aol.com. I accept any assistance you may have, and offer assistance to you in starting your own project. I won the lottery by being born in the US, and it feels good to share my lottery winnings with the people of Malawi.

Dr Helen

MY LAST DAY IN MALINDI  Sunday, January 10, 2010

James informed me, early this morning, that his 6-year-old son was in the hospital and that he was not doing well. I went over with him, and the poor little boy was having a seizure, either from cerebral malaria, or because his temperature was 40.1 C or both. There was no clinical officer nor nurse around. I yelled for someone to give him Valium (in English and then attempted Chichewa so no one understood me), and then, while demonstrating to the family to sponge him with cool compresses, I started to grind the equivalent of Tylenol so he could swallow it. I gave him the mixture and of course he spit it up all over me. I was more upset over his critical illness then everyone else including the family. People just expect children to get sick and die. I can’t get used to it. Maybe it is their protective mechanism because it happens all the time. The boy ended up doing well.

Everyone, now that I am leaving, is coming over to my house with shopping lists. They want money for their children, money for school, supplies for the hospital, cameras, computers, sponsorships to the US, names of donors, etc.  I have just finished the book “The Bottom Billion” by Paul Collier. I now understand when he says financial aid to governments of countries in the bottom billion interferes with the development of strategies appropriate for their circumstances.The current strategies have become shopping lists presented to donors. Their objective should be growth from within rather than aid. I have spent  time here working with the hospital staff, at all levels, making suggestions on how they can improve efficiency, patient care, and personal satisfaction by developing new strategies. I fear that much of it will not be implemented.

I leave tomorrow for Lilongwe, and I hope I can post this journal.

THE MAGNIFICIENT SKY  Saturday, January 9, 2010

The Summer sky in the Southern hemisphere is totally lit up with stars. It is too crowded for me to recognize any constellations. The fireflies on the ground remind me of my childhood in NYC. The sunsets are magnificent and last quite long. My favorite time is early morning, when the fishermen are just packing up, because it is cool.

My time here is drawing to an end, and I have mixed feelings about leaving. It is quiet, peaceful, and slow; it is the pure getaway. However, I cannot live without the internet, current events, warm water, my family, friends and my pets. I do speak on my cell phone to my family daily, and it is not expensive. There is so much to be done and I do feel I have made some difference. I am motivated to work hard at home to assist St. Martin’s, and then to return here soon.

EDUCATION   Friday, January 8, 2010

A day of deliveries. First twins, and then a little girl. I am really enjoying this but I do admit I am terrified about getting HIV or Hepatitis B or Tuberculosis. I cover myself up so well that I can’t even breathe in the heat. Several times I nearly fainted.

All our children born in the US have truly won the lottery. They are guaranteed an education through High School and most can go to College if they choose. Although Primary School education in Malawi is free, many of the children born in this remote rural area, especially the girls, will not even start school because it is not encouraged by their parents for any number of reasons (e.g.,distance, cost of supplies). On the other hand, today, I walked to St. Michael’s Secondary School, a premier boarding school for the top notch girls in the country. These girls are truly motivated. They are smart, articulate and polite. They appreciate their education and have worked very hard to be there. I enjoyed sitting in on Biology class, and participating in an English lesson

MALARIA NETS  Thursday, January 7, 2010

There is no money to buy medications and supplies. Nurses are leaving because of inadequate housing. The hospital is 50% understaffed. Just when everything looks so grim, a truck pulls up with a delivery of 800 malaria nets. Someone in some government or non-government agency thought the community needed them. We definitely do. Malaria is rampant during this rainy season. The challenge is convincing women and children to use them. Many women are convinced that nets are a white man’s creation to keep men away and decrease the birth rate.

Many Moslems reside around the lake because this was a travel route from the Middle East before the Christian missionaries arrived(Dr. Livingstone passed through Malindi in 1886).The Christians and Moslems live well together and respect each other’s religious beliefs and customs. No one has a clue what a Jew is but the Seventh Day Adventists do celebrate their Sabbath on Saturday. James, my cook/housekeeper is a Moslem. He has two wives. A day does not pass without his bringing in a child or two for me to  photograph.

MOBILE CLINIC  Wednesday, January 6, 2010

I am disappointed that I  missed two C-sections and a hydrocele repair today. I was at a mobile clinic. Several clinical workers drove off-road to the middle of nowhere. In front of a hut, many mothers and children were waiting, mostly for newborn immunizations. We also did a few prenatal visits and sick visits. We gave at least 150 oral polio, DPT and BCG vaccines. BCG is an immunization against TB, which does work when the patient is not immunocompromised (e.g., with HIV). It is very common in undeveloped countries. I gave so many immunizations to the babies. My nurse, Patty, would be proud of me. Yes, Jerrold, I did double glove. Each syringe and needle is sterile, but there are no alcohol wipes to clean the skin.

Maintenance of medical records is sensible. Every person has a booklet, which they keep on their person. Every healthcare worker they see, documents in the booklet. There are special booklets for children which include vaccination requirements and growth charts.

SO MANY CHILDREN  Tuesday, January 5, 2010

I was on the job interview panel for St. Martin’s Hospital. It was a very formal procedure. The candidates for the job positions and the other members of the panel were all dressed up – suits, ties, dresses, heels. The positions were Matron (the equivalent of our Nursing Director), Chief Clincal Officer, Senior Clinical Officer, and some business staff. The format was structured and each interview was extensive. I was very impressed. After 6 hours straight of interviews in a sweltering church in Mangochi, each panel member was given an envelope of 2000 Kwatras ($13). It is so hot and humid. I can not believe they wore those clothes.

I have so many daily visitors. They come in and sit down and pick up the books I brought. I can’t read my books fast enough because I have promised I would leave them all.

Parents ask me to sponsor or find a donor to sponsor their children’s educations. Private secondary school (High School) is a better education than public secondary schools. The charge is $300 every three months but the typical family cannot afford it.

There are so many children, mostly very happy, singing and playing in groups.

DAUDI  Monday, January 4, 2010

This is the face of an 18-month-old little girl born with HIV. Daudi is in WHO classification Stage III, which diagnoses her with AIDS. Children with her condition can live up to the age of 15 if they are compliant with ART (anti-retroviral therapy) but most hare not. The biggest cause of death is malnutrition due to poverty.

Both Daudi’s mother and father remain alive with AIDS. The father, a ‘businessman’ was the first to catch HIV and gave it to the mother. The mother says she knew she had HIV, but she did not use birth control because she was misinformed that such methods cause infection and/or cancer. There are four other children in the family without HIV – ages 8,6,4, and 2. They live in a village without easy access to centers that distribute ART drugs. We admitted Daudi to the hospital today with weakness and fever and malnutrition.

There are problems on so many levels – lack of education, false beliefs, noncompliance, poverty, lack of food, lack of health care in rural areas, lack of training institutions for health care professionals, misuse of funds/donations, etc. Where does one begin?

IDENTICAL TWINS BY C-SECTION  Sunday, January 3, 2010

Mr. Moda, the surgeon, knocked on my bedroom window at 9:30 PM last night. He was performing an emergency C-section (There was a cord problem) and would I assist? Believe it or not, the only other C-section I attended in my life was my own. The anesthesia technician, the nurse/midwife, the surgery tech and another assistant were all there. It was amazing how quickly they set up the Operating Theatre. I scrubbed, gowned and put on 2 pairs of sterile gloves. A lumbar block was quickly performed, anesthesia was given, the field was sterilized, the patient was draped and the incision was made. Experience and skill were everywhere. I assisted with the opening, the suction, the retraction, pulling out the babies, cutting the cords, and the closure. All was clean and superfast and the little boys are beautiful. Their Apgar scores were 9 and 10. They wanted me to name the babies for good luck but I passed. The mother did well, and the babies breast fed immediately. The only problem was the terrible incisional pain that the mother had there were no narcotics in the hospital.

Ironically I am now reading the novel ‘Cutting for Stone’ by Abraham Verghese which takes place in a mission hospital in Ethiopia and is the story about identical boy twins who were born by C-section,

MY HOUSE GUESTS HAVE DEPARTED  Saturday, January 2, 2010

I took Jacynth on a tour of the hospital. We watched an 11-month-old-baby expire. Again, the mother brought the baby in too late. One out of five children under the age of five die of Malaria. I was told that Malawians have such large families so that when the parents are aged, they will have some children left to care for them.

Today, I assisted with my first surgery in many years. I was reminded how to do a D&C/ extraction of retained fetal matter after birth. Next time, I hope to be able to do it myself.

My guests left, and although I appreciated the quiet before they arrived, I feel a little lonely. However, everything here takes so long. To wash my hair, we need water and electricity (to blowdry) and daytime (to avoid the nighttime bugs). I was successful today.

OUR FIRST DEATH  Friday, January 1, 2010

It is not even 10 AM and we have had our first hospital death. Patients arrive at the hospital when it is too late. This man, who was in WHO Clinical Stage III (full-blown AIDs), came in today with ascites (fluid in the abdomen). He was very sick and malnourished.  We removed 2.5 liters of abdominal fluid, did a smear for tuberculosis (TB), and diagnosed him with abdominoperitoneal TB. He died the day after admission.

All TB patients are required to stay in the TB ward for 2 weeks to make sure they take their medication. They are followed on an outpatient basis. TB, in all atypical presentations, is very common because of major noncompliance.

The staff now comes to me with many questions. I spend time teaching. They don’t realize how much I am learning from them.

Jacynth, an IFESH educator working in Malawi, joined us this evening. I definitely don’t entertain this much at home. For days now, I have been going different places to get onto the Internet with no success. Jacynth purchased a ‘dongo’ which is the broadband access to the Internet through the cell phone network. I tried to upload this journal, but my attempts were  unsuccessful. I had hoped to share my experiences as they happen.

My journey 2009

Standard

INEFFICIENCY  Thursday, December 31, 2009

Rounds began with a long discussion of whether there were 10 or 11 patients in the female ward. There were 10 ‘charts’ but head count was 11. The ‘charts’ are pieces of paper attached by a fold in the corner. History, exams and medication lists are randomly documented. One important project for me is to get supplies to make charts. The challenge will be to teach the staff to implement and maintain this.

I ordered supplies (short-acting insulin and sutures), from a private pharmacy in Lilongwe, that the hospital ran out of a few days ago. The package arrived in Mangochi yesterday, and we picked it up. I entrusted the package to the clinical officer, Mr. Moda. A patient came in today with an elevated blood sugar of nearly 500, and the medical assistant could not find the insulin. He came to my house, and we searched together. First, the cell network was down. We couldn’t reach Mr. Moda. We checked all the refrigerators in the hospital. We couldn’t get into the pharmacy because we didn’t have the one key, and didn’t know who had the key. Arthur, the pharmacist, was out of reach. We walked to the Matron’s house and she didn’t have the key. After walking from house to house, we did locate the key. The insulin was not in the pharmacy. As a last resort, we decided to check in the ambulance, so we retrieved those keys.  There was the package containing the insulin!! It sat in the heat of the closed vehicle all day. So after many hours and several miles, the patient was successfully treated with fluids and insulin, and was discharged.

There is no accountability of medications and supplies, and there is no communication.

Selina, the children and I spent New Year’s Eve, in the dark, dancing to music on our computers.

VISITING THE HEALTH CENTRES  Wednesday, December 30, 2009

Today, we visited two of the three health centres – Nkope, 68 km NW and Mpondasi, 35 km SW. It is unsafe to go to Lulanga, 108 km N, because of the rains. I am not disappointed. The journeys are tiresome, and it is painful to see the awful conditions and lack of supplies The Administrator, Matron and Chief Clinical Officer are meeting others and discussing how I can have the most impact. One good idea is teaching nurses and medical assistants to run diabetes and hypertension clinics. The majority of Malawians have elevated glucose and blood pressure which is not being treated. Even the health care professionals do not have a good idea of treatment, prevention and diet.

I have house guests. Selina arrived today with 4 nieces and nephews – Sam, Diana, Sare and Shawn, to celebrate New Years. They are wonderful children – polite, patient, and intelligent. English is taught early on in school so we were all able to communicate.

As usual, the electricity went off and we ate by candlelight. The heat is so unbearable without the fan.

GREAT CLINICAL CASES ON A VERY RAINY DAY  Tuesday, December 29, 2009

It rained so hard today that the storage shed on the side of my house lost an entire brick wall.

The people are more comfortable with me and many hospital workers are coming up to me with their medical problems.

I went to HIV clinic which is in fact very well organized. There is a strictly adhered to protocol, set by the World Health Organization(WHO) and agreed to by the Malawi government. There are always enough anti-retroviral medications, and the ongoing education both in groups and individually is very good

I also did ward rounds, and saw many sick patients – a man admitted with the largest liver I have ever seen (hepatitis B is very common) and a woman with a goiter (enlarged thyroid gland) the size of a soccer ball.

I now take Chichewa lessons by Mercy who also washes my clothes. James, my cook and housekeeper, cooks wonderful vegetarian and fish dinners.

If I only had electricity and water all the time, my three-bedroom house on the lake would be paradise.

I AM THE PATIENT  Monday, December 28, 2009

It is one thing to come here as a doctor and the other to be a patient.

For the past few days, I have seen black spots, swirls, lines and webs in my right eye vision. This could have been a medical emergency, indicating retinal tear(s) or a retina detachment. I knew it couldn’t be ignored. I needed an opthamologist, preferably a retinal specialist, to look at my eye.

At 6 AM I headed out in the ambulance with the driver, Eric, for our 3-hour journey to Blantyre to go to the outpatient eye department at Queen Elizabeth’s Central Hospital. We arrived to find the private eye clinic closed until  after New Year’s. I walked into the public clinic to find the guy at the front desk taking slugs from his bourbon bottle. I was told all doctors were on holiday until January 4th. After waiting on the bench with many motley looking characters, I finally saw a clinical officer who dilated my eye (yes, I insisted he use a new bottle of dilating drops, which took ages to find). He saw no tear or detachment, but neither he nor I were very comfortable with his exam.  He wanted me to go to Lilongwe to see the country’s only retina specialist. Then, a female opthamology resident arrived  and felt my retina were normal to her thorough exam. She saw many vitreous floaters which can occur in ‘mature’ eyes. I walked away feeling comfortable. She and Selina (see photo), who stayed with me in Blantyre,  were truly was my guardian angels today.

MY FIRST PATIENT  Sunday, December 27, 2009

Slept late. Grabbed my camera. Walked the perimeter of the mission and hospital. A medical assistant, one of two covering for the entire hospital, stopped me to examine an 11-month-old baby boy, who was covered with worsening large blisters from head to toe, including in his mouth and on his genitalia. According to the mom, who was 7 months pregnant, the blisters began soon after birth. The baby, who had received all immunizations, had a high fever. He was admitted in the early morning, and since the lab was closed and there are virtually no diagnostic tools anyway, he was treated empirically with Gentamycin, Penicillin and Chloramphenical – three antibiotics, Quinine – for malaria and Panadol – same as Tylenol. That is the general cocktail for anyone who comes in with a fever.

I have never seen such a sick looking baby (see photo) and thought perhaps he had Steven-Johnson Syndrome, a blistering skin condition with a high rate of mortality. It could be from the immunization, from disease (such as malaria), or from medication he received previously. I had him transferred (after difficulty finding the one driver for the one ambulance) to a larger hospital for better diagnosis and more sterile treatment of the blisters.

The family was terrified that the next baby would have the same condition because the mom had bad spirits. The grandmother was also most upset that they didn’t have money to pay for the baby’s treatment. The husband rushed home nearly 60 km to collect money from the fellow villagers to pay the hospital. Despite their poverty, Malawians have such pride and a sense of moral obligation.

I cannot close without mentioning the engagement party I attended. It was held in the hall of St. Martin’s Secondary School. Close to 1000 people attended. It lasted 3+ hours. It was a huge ceremony of dancing and gift giving – mostly money, but also, live chickens passed from person to person, cooked chicken that were eaten by hand on stage. There were relatives holding fruit wrapped up in plastic, and many people were called up in groups to dance around large baskets into which they threw in Kwatra bills. The two future brides and grooms sat on stage, each in armchairs, talking to no one.

THE OFFICIAL WELCOME  Saturday, December 26, 2009

This morning I met with acting chief clinical officer, Mr. Moda, and again he presented quite a grim picture of the decline of St. Martin’s.

A big meeting was scheduled. Every department chair, including clinical staff, nursing, pharmacy, and dentistry were to meet with me to give me an oral presentation of what their department does and needs. The meeting was at the ‘expatriate’ restaurant, the Mezani.  The view overlooking the lake is magnificent, and the breeze on the shaded porch makes it the only cool place in the village. The meeting was scheduled for 2 PM but most were there close to 3 PM. ‘Malawi time’ is slower than ‘Tahoe time’. I was seated between the Priest and the Administrator at the head of this table – being the only white person in the room. Everyone was served a bottle of Coke or Fanta, and 4 sandwich cookies. I am sure much of the population has type 2 diabetes.

I was overwhelmed by the repeated reports of the lack of supplies. There are 5-10 births a day and no ultrasound machines. There is not enough suture material to sew up birthing tears.There are 20-40 children in the pediatric ward a day. Most are there with malaria, anemia( the average admission hemoglobin is 3-4), diarrhea and bacterial pneumonia. There are no reliable oxygen compressors. Nasal cannulas and suction tubes are reused. Despite this, the hospital plays a major role in the community, treating and healing patients from many kilometers away.

CHRISTMAS  Friday, December 25, 2009

Did not sleep well last night. Heard voices and saw flashlights outside of my front door. I looked out and to my surprise, the entire expanse of the lake was lit up with the lights fishing boats. I found out this morning that the fishermen who have a full catch pull up in front of my house to drop off their fish. When they arrive they make a loud chanting noise. I was invited to Christmas Mass at the Anglican Church, a 30 second walk from my house, which is amazing. It is a red brick church built in 1898. Yesterday I attended a baptism for at least 80 babies.

This morning, I arrived at Church at the designated time – 7:30 AM. The service had started but there was hardly anyone there.  Groups of villagers gradually arrived – the different choirs, in matching colors and uniforms; the Matrons in white caps and shirts, and blue skirt; the mothers with babies tied to their backs, and many, many children of all ages. Most every adult I have spoken to here has 7-10 children. There were close to 400 people in the church.

The dress is eclectic, to say the least. Clothes are second hand mostly from the UK and US. Most worshippers wore shoes. The attire ranged from shiny prom dresses on young girls to ill-fitted pajama shirts and army fatigues on men. Many women dressed nicely.

Naturally all the prayers, led by the Priest, and his assistants, was in Chichewa, the Malawi national language. The choirs sang separately and together. The music was glorious. Towards the end of the 3-hour service, the Priest introduced me to the congregation and gave me a very nice welcome. I stood up and said “moni” , which means hello/good morning in Chichewa, and explained why I was in Malindi. It was a special experience. The one thing I saw is that despite abject poverty, the people are happy and gentle.

CHAMBO  Thursday, December 24, 2009

When Selina left yesterday I felt like I was a kid left at sleep-away camp for the first time, saying goodbye to her mother. Today, I feel at home. In the 24 hours I have been here there are many lessons I have learned. Get ready for bed before it gets dark. If you are not ready the electricity will definitely go out. Wash your hair when there is still water coming out of the faucet. Do not spray 100% DEET on your toenails because it works better than nail polish remover. Do not try to close a window by pulling on the latch attachment because it may come off and cause you to fly on the concrete floor on your back.

I have eaten three meals today, two of rice and beans, and of course, I have Chambo (the native fish local to Lake Malawi) for dinner every night.  Delicious but I am glad I bought eggs and cheese and crackers in the market before I came. I am sure everyone has heard of the Freshman Fifteen, I may be first to represent the Africa Eighteen.

St. Martin’s Hospital is private, as opposed to government-run. They receive their supplies through what they collect from patient fees and donations. They receive very little in donations and many patients do not come until they are very sick because they cannot afford to pay. A hospital consultation is 30 Kwatra (150 Kwatra = $1.00). That is right, 30 cents!! A delivery is 500 Kwatra, A surgery, such as a C-section, is 1500 Kwatra ($10.00). The majority of in-patients I saw today were admitted with malaria and anemia. An 18-year-old boy came in with a hemoglobin of 3. There are IV fluids and enough malaria medications (That along with anti-retro virals – drugs to treat HIV –  are supplied by the government). However, there is no blood bank, so the guardians (the family that feeds and cares for the patient) donate units of blood to transfuse the patients.

In addition to malaria, other common diseases are TB (There is a TB ward), HIV, Syphilis and hepatitis B. Surprisingly to me, there is not alot of Schistosimiasis (parasites from stagnant water) nor Cholera.

The operating theatre is really scary. There is a talented anesthesiology clinician, Geoffrey, but there are no operations being performed for the following reasons. The Oxygen compressor sporadically works; the clinical surgeon on staff only does C-sections, There is no vicryl suture material, which is absolutely necessary to attach the fascia (tissue under the skin). The building was the original clinic built in the early 1900’s and it is falling apart.

The focus here, as elsewhere in Africa, is the maternity ward. There is a major encouragement at government and private levels for women not to give birth in the villages. Many pregnant women come here to stay in the maternity ward for days, weeks and sometimes, months. They arrive with guardians and their other children who camp outside of the ward. They attend classes on nutrition, disease prevention, and birth control (Reportedly used, but it is not obvious to me). It is quite a sight, and a process that truly decreases birth mortality and morbidity.

MY FIRST NIGHT IN MALINDI  Wednesday, December 23, 2009

Selina and I arrived in the afternoon. Malindi is a village 20 km from Mangochi, which is a town with a post office and district hospital. St Martin’s Hospital in Malindi was initially built in the early 1900’s by the Anglican missionaries. It is at the base of Lake Malawi, where both missionaries and natives would stop during travel. The road between Malindi and Mangochi was unpaved until a few years ago.

We were greeted by Mr. Bernard Ngosi, the administrator, Charles, the caretaker of the property, James, my cook/housekeeper, and later by Reverend Pembamoyo, the priest in charge of the Malindi Mission. I now reside in a 3-bedroom house on the lake, with electricity (+/-), a flush toilet, an indoor/outdoor kitchen, and beautiful views of the sunset.  I am glad I brought soap, washclothes (thank you Jessica), bottled water (18 liters), 100% DEET, and flashlights. I was warned that sometimes the generator goes off at night. And sure, enough, at 6:40 PM, 10 minutes after sunset, it was out. Before Charles left, he made sure I had two candles. My favorite thing of all here, so far, is my fan; yes, Jerrold, my fan. Since the electricity is now out, I have had to open a window and despite a screen, I have befriended multiple mosquitos and other crawling and flying creatures. There have been three dogs sleeping in my back yard. They belong to Mr. Ngosi, who lives next door. I will resist in petting them because of the risk of rabies, which is very common in Malawi.

I toured the hospital today with Mr. Ngosi. The conditions are extremely poor. When the electricity goes out, only the light in the operating theatre has alternate power. Tomorrow I work with the clinicians/medical officers on the wards and clinics.

DRIVE TO BLANTYRE  Tuesday, December 22, 2009

The South African Airways flight from Johannesburg to Lilongwe left on time. In the 2 + hour flight we were served pre-dinner beverages, a tasty hot meal, and after-dinner beverages. The flight attendants served everyone with ease and finesse, just like in the U.S. 20 years ago. Selina, the IFESH country rep for Malawi, arrived in her Toyota truck. Our initial plans were to drive direct to Malindi. However, we had to pick up supplies, and to avoid driving at night we detoured to Blantyre, which is the cosmopolitan center of Malawi.

The drive from Lilongwe to Blantyre, which is 320 km. took us 6 1/2 hours.Paved road all the way but many potholes. Many trucks which we had to slow down to pass. People on bicycles, with cargo; young boys on foot walking with their herds of goats; mothers with babies balancing supplies on the tops of their heads.

There were roadside vendors throughout selling Irish potatoes, wild mushrooms, onions, tomatoes, wood, charcoal, and you name it. We were stopped at perhaps twenty roadblocks by traffic cops and/or police who always just waved us on. It was not clear to me why they were there.Much of the road was Malawi on the left and Mozambique on the right. I don’t think I’ve ever seen a stretch of unprotected border as that. People from bordering countries can get along!

The skies were grand, constantly changing; there were many white puffy clouds, with patches of blue background. And then all would go dark, and it would pour. This is the rainy season and everything is green.

ARRIVED IN AFRICA  Monday, December, 21, 2009

I left Phoenix yesterday and I am currently in Madrid, waiting in the Iberia lounge to fly to Johannesburg. On Tuesday I arrive in Lilongwe, Malawi.

Then I travel overland a few hundred km to Mangochi, on Lake Malawi. I will be staying in Malindi, 20 km from Mangochi, on the grounds of St Martin’s Hospital, which has 100 beds and no medical doctors. There are also several  outlying Health Centres which serve about 50,000 people. My plan is to work with the administrators, practitioners, and health care workers to define one of many needed healthcare related projects focusing on woman and other vulnerable populations. When I arrive back in the States I will try to get funding for my future work.

And now the challenge and the work and the fun begins!!!!

IN TRANSIT  Sunday, December 20, 2009

I left Phoenix yesterday and I am currently in Madrid, waiting in the Iberia lounge to fly to Johannesburg. On Tuesday I arrive in Lilongwe, Malawi.

Then I travel overland a few hundred km to Mangochi, on Lake Malawi. I will be staying in Malindi, 20 km from Mangochi, on the grounds of St Martin’s Hospital, which has 100 beds and no medical doctors. There are also several  outlying Health Centres which serve about 50,000 people. My plan is to work with the administrators, practitioners, and health care workers to define one of many needed healthcare related projects focusing on woman and other vulnerable populations. When I arrive back in the States I will try to get funding for my future work.

And now the challenge and the work and the fun begins!!!!

TRIALS AND TRIBULATIONS OF TECHNOLOGY   Monday, December 7, 2009

In Aruba on a family vacation. I packed in preparation for my trip to Malawi.

I have been so pleased that I purchased an unlocked GSM cell phone on the internet for $40.00. The Motorola V400 was an old model but was newly packaged. It came with a battery which I charged at home; arriving at the airport, I bought and installed my first SIM card. I was so pleased about this test run. But…..after a few hours my battery died and would not subsequently hold a charge, so I guess you get what you pay for. I am glad I discovered this problem before I arrived in Lilongwe, Malawi. I will be in quick mode getting another cell phone.

I brought my Digital Canon Rebel SLR to test it out, and 2 of my 3 lenses do not work. The workable lens is 50-200mm; I can not stand closer than10 feet to take a photo, and I cannot take any wide-angle or scenic photos. Off to buy another lens before I leave for Africa.

Plans for the use of technology can sometimes make our life so complicated. I am old enough to remember traveling abroad, calling home from a pay phone in a government building every couple of weeks, and having friends and family send me snail mail via General Delivery of a Post Office in a given city where I planned to pass through. Lonelier but less to worry about.

 JUST ANOTHER DAY  Monday, November 23, 2009

Worked all day, working hard to earn money to pay my office expenses while I am gone. Still lots of positive things happened in preparation for my trip. I received my Motorola V400 GSM unlocked phone which I ordered from Amazon.com. I selected one with the fewest features that advertised the longest battery life. This will be my communication with my family and friends in the States. I will buy a SIM card when I arrive in Malawi. I do not anticipate I will have internet service while I am there other than in the internet cafes, which are far away from where I will be staying.

I also picked up large quantities of generic meds that I ordered from Costco. I am receiving the meds at their cost, which is so cheap. Imagine, one hundred 150 mg. Diflucan pills for $19.25 – that is 19 cents per pill!!! Ladies, do you remember picking up one pill for a yeast infection costing over $7?  I am bringing thousands of Doxycycline,  Flagyl, blood pressure meds and Iron pills. My medical supplier, PSS, has also sold me supplies at cost – BP cuffs, stethoscopes, needles, syringes, urine dipsticks. I have more stuff that I possibly can carry. I am worried I will be stopped at Customs in Lilongwe but Selina, the IFESH country representative and my guardian angel in Malawi, assures me that I will have no trouble.

ARRIVING IN TAHOE  November 19, 2009

Jerrold and I arrived around noon, and headed over to the Sparks outlet mall where we unexpectedly found a fantastic sporting goods store called Scheels. I purchased a microfilter pump and tablets to purify water and oral rehydration salts. Going on this trip myself, I was determined to put together the filter. However, in all my wisdom and independence, I was unable to figure out how to manipulate the retainer pin in order to slide in the pump handle. Jerrold came to the rescue but not before he succumbed to reading the directions